Rare Chinese Qing Lady's Kesi Gauze Summer Surcoat Robe
item#: 447125
price: SOLD
Late Qing Dynasty (19th century) Chinese lady’s front-opening summer gauze kesi surcoat decorated with eight polychrome roundels, featuring a central crane surrounded by butterflies and flowers, set against a dark cobalt blue ground. The crane motif indicates the robe would have been worn by the wife of a first-rank civil official. The sleeve ends are decorated with a water and wave motif. The bottom of the robe is decorated in the traditional pattern of waves, stylized mountains, and diagonal bands of upright water (li shui) permeated with auspicious symbols. The robe is lined in blue silk and the five closures are metal. It has a vent on the rear. The robe measures about 48 1/2"L x 62" sleeve tip to sleeve tip. It has excellent provenance. The textile was acquired in China in the 1930s by Lucy Sprague Mitchell, founder of the Bank Street College of Education in New York City. It has remained safely stored away by her descendants up to the present time. The color is vibrant and the overall condition is very good. There are a few areas where the woven fabric has separated at the shoulders (see enlargements). Two of these areas should be stabilized in order to prevent further raveling of the kesi weaving. One of the butterflies is partly detached around the outline of the butterfly. There is some minor soiling evident on the cuffs, lining, and central roundel. The robe was hemmed up by hand. It appears it could be easily returned to its original length, though a faint fold and/or soil line might remain. Two illustrations of this style of robe are on pages 188-189 of “Imperial Wardrobe” by Gary Dickinson and Linda Wrigglesworth, Berkeley, 2000. Further information on Lucy Sprague Mitchell can be found in her biography “The Making of a Modern Woman” by Joyce Antler. On this item, we can accept international payments only by bank wire transfer.